Join Chris Morocco in the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen as he makes BA's best lasagna. Why in the world would we tell you to make meatballs, brown them, and then break them into pieces—for a ragù? Sounds crazy, but it’s the best way we found to sear a big batch of meat without overcooking it. This MeatballMethod™ yields deep color (a.k.a. flavor) along with tender meat. If you want to use fresh pasta, go for it, you overachiever you. We also tested the recipe with no-boil noodles, but found they soak up a lot more sauce and the lasagna loses its wonderful ooziness; instead, we recommend the regular dried stuff.