Michael Portillo travels by tram to the former cotton town of Oldham on the edge of the Peak District. Here he visits Oldham Coliseum, the town's Victorian repertory theatre, and hears about the lifting of censorship by the Lord Chamberlain's Office in the late 1960s. He then goes hiking before a visit to Sheffield, where he attends a knife-making workshop. He ends this part of his journey admiring the striking post-war sculptures of Barbara Hepworth at the Yorkshire Sculpture Park near Wakefield.