Joanna returns to her birthplace, India, in search of a kitchen cupboard staple once known as 'black gold'. Starting in the majestic ancient city of Hampi, she's invited to a dazzling Hindu festival by a local rock climber. Then it's onwards to the lush backwaters of Kerala, where she meets a great grandmother who teaches the oldest martial art in the world and spends the night in a magical houseboat inspired by the old spice traders.